August 13 – August 19 ,2023

Sunday:                     Smoky Grilled Pork Chops and Zucchini Noodles

Thursday:                 Carbonara Meets Amatriciana

Saturday:                  Pizza Margharita

Sunday:                    Dinner with Mere and Hoddy, the boys and Murph, Apps:  Watermelon, Feta and Basil Grilled Chicken Chemuin with Parsley Sauce Corn Salad , Brussels Sprout and Kale Salad, Green Goddess Dressing

August 20 – August 26, 2023

Tuesday:                   Baba Ganoush, Turkey Smash-Burgers, Salad, Boiled Corn

Friday:                       Pan-Roasted Shrimp with Red Rice

Saturday:                  Dinner at Katie and Dave’s

A REMEMBRANCE OF THINGS PASTA 

[Speaking of ‘things past(a)’, I seem to have taken a week off from the blog.  This was not a conscious vacation and, in fact, during all of last week I had a nagging sense that I was neglecting some duty.  In any event, not one of you called, or texted or e-mailed.  I’m hurt, of course, but have decided to continue the blog, if only to spite you.]

Last week, for the first time in quite a while, we had people over for dinner.  Beez has been recuperating from total hip-replacement surgery, and not in the best condition for entertaining, which for her means ironing napkins and tablecloths, making centerpieces, clipping or buying flowers for our myriad vases, cleaning silver, and many other things that are beyond my knowledge and competence.  (But I would like to know why we have so very many vases.)

On Sunday, Rick and Mere and Hoddy joined us and the boys and Murph, the friendliest dog in the world, though not the most gentle, for dinner, conversation and a few lectures by various members of the party.

I had a grand time and wanted to invite everybody back for last Sunday, but Beez reined me in, and I may have to wait until Labor Day to cook for a crowd again.  On the other hand, there’s always cooking for us.

In the last post we talked about cooking outdoors and the weather still calls for that, in fact, even more so.  But last week’s clement weather (a rare August week for the ‘burgh) allowed us to open the windows and cook indoors.  Opening the windows is absolutely key for those who cook without commercial grade ventilation.  But this week, the heat is back on, as is the air-conditioning and cooking indoors is not the obvious choice.

In spite of which, we’re going to talk about cooking indoors, specifically about pasta, even more specifically about carbonara and amatriciana sauces.  Which do you like best?  Good – now I’m going to show you how to combine it with the one you like less to create one of the best pasta dishes you have ever tasted.  We used Frankie’s Sausage, of course, and so should you.  But any sausage will do and you can substitute bacon for the pancetta/guanciale alternative, but the taste will be heavier and not as special as this master pasta recipe allows.  So please go out and get the pancetta or guanciale before cooking this masterpiece.  (I’d invite some friends over to share this wonderful dish, if your spouse will allow it.)

Rigatoni alla Zozzona (Carbonara Meets Amatriciana)

(adapted from Milk Street Magazine, Sept-Oct, 2023)

Note:  This mashup of eggy Carbonara and spicy Amatriciana is a staple in Rome.

Timing:                                                  40 minutes

Ingredients:                                     Serves about 5

1 pound rigatoni

4 ounces pancetta or guanciale, chopped

8 ounces hot Italian sausage, casings removed (get it from ‘Frankie’s Sausage’ in Sharpsburg, if you can)

14 ½ ounces crushed tomatoes (1 ½ cups)

1 large egg, pus 2 large egg yolks

1 ounce finely grated pecorino (1/2 cup), plus more to serve

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided – more for serving, if you wish

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

Prep:

Chop the pancetta or guanciale.

Get a large pot of water boiling over medium-high (to par cook the rigatoni).

Remove the sausage from the casings and smash flat on a plate to shorten the cooking time.

Whisk the olive oil (2 tablespoons), the egg and yolks, the pecorino,1 teaspoon of pepper and ¼ cup of reserved pasta water in a small bowl.

Cook:

Add the pasta and 1 tablespoon of salt to the boiling water and cook, stirring from time to time until shy of al dente.

Reserve 2 cups of the pasta water.

Drain the pasta and set aside.

Dry the pot.

In the pot in which you cooked the pasta, over medium-high, add 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the pancetta or guanciale.  Stir and cook until browned, 2 -4 minutes.

Now add the sausage and break it up, as it cooks to brown (maybe 5 minutes).

Use a slotted spoon to transfer half of the meat mixture to plate.

Into the meat mixture left in the pot, stir the tomatoes and simmer over medium until thickened, stirring from time to time, until it thickens, maybe 8 minutes.

Now stir in one cup of the pasta water and the cooked pasta.  Cook, stirring, until al dente – maybe 4 minutes.  Note:  taste the pasta to see if it’s the right texture.

When the pasta is finished, turn off the heat and add the egg mixture and reserved meats and stir until the sauce coats the pasta – maybe 2 minutes.  Add more reserved cooking water as needed.

Taste, correct seasoning, top with additional pepper, cheese and, if you wish, olive oil.  Enjoy.